I've also noticed in the past that declicking software often has problems with acoustic guitar and removes elements of it. I figured it would make any alterations in the sound more obvious. I picked this excerpt because of the acoustic guitar and overall quietness of the track. Posted: Wed 11:38 pm Post subject: Ripping vinyl, a mini tutorial.Īs I mentioned in in some of my posts in the General forum, I'm ripping an extensive vinyl lp collection to digital media.Thanks for all the comments, guys. I've learned a lot during the process and since I've seen at least one other post here that mentioned ripping vinyl I thought I would share a little of what I've learned.įirst thing, *don't* put your turntable on the computer desk on which you work. You can damn near hear every keystroke and mouse click in the finished product. If you set a drink cup down a bit too hard it sounds like an earthquake by the time you enhance the bass and play the WAV file back over a good sound system, or, Allah forbid, quality headphones. Second, clean your records before you try to rip them. ![]() A lot of the skipping is apparently due to large (in relation to the record groove) pieces of trash in the groove, this makes the needle jump out of the groove, causing either a skip or a loud pop and a jump of a groove or two. Ivory dishwashing liquid works well for me, along with a soft polyester fiber painter's brush which I move parallel to the grooves in a sort of scraping motion, trying to dislodge the crap in the grooves. I use regular tap water for the washing and then a final rinse with distilled water which I get at the grocery store. If your tap water is really "hard" you may wish to use distilled water for the whole process but I haven't found it necessary.Ī decent turntable, cartridge and stylus make a big difference. My setup is a Sanyo direct drive, linear tracking turntable from the early eighties. My cartridge is an Audio Technica middle of the line product and I have a microline stylus. The microline stylus seems to make a difference since it appears that it rides in a slightly different portion of the groove than a regular stylus and thus is contacting a portion of the groove which is less worn. They even make special 3 mil styli for playing 78 rpm records which have a substantially larger groove than an lp, you can get those styli on ebay for a surprisingly decent price. I haven't found that the preamp makes that much difference as long as the one you use is low noise and low hum. Most preamps don't distort much and the distortion in the record overwhelms anything in the preamp.Ī good soundcard is a necessity, the on board soundcard is not good enough to do a really quality job. My soundcard is a Turtle Beach "Santa Cruz" which I picked up on ebay for less than twenty dollars shipped. It's a very good soundcard but it doesn't have the latest bells and whistles so everyone avoids them. I'm getting great results sampling at 44.1 kHz and don't see any reason to go to a higher sampling rate. If it's good enough for CDs it's good enough for me. Next we come to software and the actual recoding process itself.Īfter trying more than a few different softwares I've come to a combination that does a good job for me.įor the recording process I like Wave Repair, it's a shareware/freeware that has nice features for recording. ![]() First, it has a nice big display of the elapsed time of the recording, next it has a preview function to allow you to set recording levels before you actually start recording. Wave Repair also has peak holding meters which hold the highest peak level of your signal until you reset them. Finally Wave Repair has nice big sliders for setting the recording level, they also move smoothly rather than in discrete jumps as some softwares do. As long as you do not use the editing functions within Wave Repair, it remains freeware, if you wish to use the editing functions then you should pay the quite reasonable shareware fee.
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